~16k went to bed early last night feeling exhausted and was asleep before 9pm in the beautifully restored german alburgue, to be woken up at ~1.30 by biggish Spanish lady in tartan pyjamas, who was shining her torch and rummaging around with lots of plastic, oh the sound of the camino.
Lights on at 7.30am not so bad, i'm up packed and ready for my last day on this camino by 8am. Still dark of course and much to my dismay not a single place is open for cafe con leche, well never mind, I have a 12.50 bus to catch from astorga so on I go. The lights of the town help illuminate the way and it is dawn on the outskirts following a red earth stony path. The scenery is much improved over the last 2 days, rolling hills, the colours red and green with threatening clouds ahead, no moon and at first little sun, then none, drizzle followed by rain and I surrender and don the rain gear which is doreen's excellent rain jacket and a black garbage bag over the backpack from david secured by an s-binder works perfectly. As luck would have it on the camino there is a cafe open in the 2nd village I passed through and it was only a 5k walk for coffee this morning. The longest was 10k which was a little too much.
Reaching the brow of the hill as the drizzle turns to rain i see a large stone barn, falling apart, not an nusual sight in this landscape, as I get closer I see a complicated sign and peak in to find a stand covered with all manner of hearts, displaying a large bowl of fruit, thermos of coffee, selection of teas, walnuts, dates, cookies, juices and water, all avalble for donation. Out pops the caretaker who is wearing the stange combination of trousers, long skirt and ski
Jacket and hair tied in a top knot. He is happy to see me, since I am only the 3rd pilgrim for the day, asks if I am italian, now the most common nationaliy I am mistaken for. I have some white tea and he gives him his heart stamp and show me his motto written on a large board " todos posible" with a heart. Hmm we talk about this for a while, all is possible, I like it. Only 6k till astorga and they pass quickly. Astorga looks like an interesting town, but grey today and i make it to the main square with cathedral and gaudi museum 10 mins before the bus leaves. Exploring the city will have to wait until I can come back to fill gap. so lean my walking stick against gaudi's wall, take a minute, yes I will come back to fill the gap and hopefully introduce my girls to the camino. I make it to the bus with 5 mins to spare, I am travelling without walking for the first time in 24 days, feels strange. Urghhh i don't want to leave the camino and have promised myself to bring it with me.
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