Saturday, October 9, 2010

Day 4 larrasoana to Pamplona



~15k on the camino plus ~ another 6k around pamplona and the evening is just begining.

Left the alburge at about 7am in search of an open cafe for cafe con leche and croissant, one pilgrim carrying a hydration tube and reservoir told us off a bakery just 5 mins off the route, so we decided to go, a minute later he came running after us telling us that we must not bring our backpacks or walking sticks inside because the woman would get angry. On we went passing another couple of pilgrims who told us of their bakery experience and the Italian said in lyrical broken English "she is not charming and I think she is wearing her pajamas" indeed she was brusque, wearing odd checked trousers, but the croissant was lovely and on deparimg she yanked the straps on my backpack so hard, I almost lost balance, she was correct though, I wasn't wearing it propely leading to bruises on my lower back, much better today. A gentle walk through the valley following rio Agra, under cloudy skies and pleasant temps, caught up with beautifully skulpted johannes, who is one of the pilgrims from night 1. He is smoking his way through the camino.
On the outskirts of Pamplona we were welcomed by the basque variation of bagpipes and a parade and then along came Kelly with his bicycle and stories of his pilgrimage which started in 2008 from Cambridge England, full of stories of his earlier walks pushing a golf cart, he is a retired new zealander living in the uk, when the golfcart broke outside Paris he decided to buy a bike. He cannot carry a backpack and cycles about 40k a day. Checked into the German run alburge which in true Germanic style is pristine with all amenities including apple charger!! I rushed out to buy an adapter an excursion that took 2 two hours due to a road being closed and my complete disorientation, but mission acomplished , a long hot shower, put on make -up and transitioned to a tourist for the evening. The old historic part of the city is full of charm, tapa bars and elegant people. Vino tinto in the elegant restraunent iruna, which still looks like it did when it opened in 1888 and when Hemingway hung out here. Tapas next. Legs ache, feet tingle, feeling good and hungry.

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